Cola and Lemongrass Marinated Chicken and Crispy Rice

This all started with a bottle of fish sauce (not to mention a lifelong obsession with both chicken and rice). I’ve been experimenting throughout quarantine with fish sauce marinades (which has led to some spectacular failures!!), reading through Thai and Vietnamese cookbooks, talking to Cambodian chefs and home cooks, and watching endless YouTube videos. One amazing thing I learned was that while sugarcane is a traditional ingredient in Cambodian kitchens, when villagers can’t afford it because they have to export it (which is its own story worth exploring) they marinate chicken with sugarcane cola instead.

For the first half its time in the oven, the chicken steams while covered, allowing the rice to cook. Its fat and juices drip down into the pan, flavoring the rice and creating a crispy crust at the base of the pan. I first perfected this dish over a fire in the yard, then brought it indoors and tinkered with it in the oven. For the second half of its cooking time, the oven temperature goes up, the chicken gets uncovered and brushed repeatedly with the cola marinade, resulting in a shiny, lacquered skin that’s redolent of ginger, garlic, spice and lemongrass. Top with a fresh, herby, crunchy salad and fish sauce dressing and enjoy.

— Samin

Serves 4

Time: About 1 hour and 15 minutes, plus overnight marinade

INGREDIENTS

For the marinade: 

1 to 2 serrano or Thai chilies, stems removed

5 cloves garlic, peeled

3-inch piece (45 grams) of ginger, peeled 

5-inch piece (20 grams) lemongrass, trimmed 

1 makrut lime leaf (fresh or dried)

2 tablespoons fish sauce (preferably Red Boat brand)

½ cup cola (preferably cane sugar cola)

½ teaspoon (3 grams) fine sea salt 

One 3 to 3¾ -pound chicken 

For the rice: 

1 tablespoon neutral-tasting oil

2 cups (360 grams) jasmine rice

1 teaspoon (6 grams) fine sea salt

To serve: 

¼ cup fish sauce (preferably Red Boat brand)

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons rice vinegar 

3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar

1 Thai chile or serrano chile, thinly sliced

1 clove garlic, very thinly sliced

2 Persian cucumbers, stripey peeled and sliced 

1 red or orange bell pepper, seeded, ribbed and thinly sliced

1 medium shallot, thinly sliced

3 cups (200 grams) thinly sliced red cabbage, from about ¼ large cabbage or ½ small 

Small handful fresh mint leaves 

Small handful cilantro leaves and tender stems

Small handful basil leaves 

¼ cup (33 grams) toasted peanuts, roughly chopped

Chicken and Rice

PREPARATION

  1. To make the marinade, slice 1 to 2 chilies, 5 cloves garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and lime leaf (if using fresh; crumble if using dried) and pound to a fine paste with ½ teaspoon salt in a mortar or finely grind in a mini food processor. Stir in 2 tablespoons fish sauce and cola. 

  2. Spatchcock the chicken: Use poultry shears or kitchen scissors (or a sharp knife) to cut along one side of the backbone until the chicken opens. Cut along the other side of the backbone to remove it and set aside for stock. Open up the bird and place it so it lies flat, breast side up. Press hard onto the center of the breast until you feel a pop, and the breast lies more or less flat. Remove each wingtip and set aside for stock. Put the chicken into a gallon-sized plastic zipper-top bag and coat it with the marinade. Seal and refrigerate at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours. 

  3. The next day, remove chicken from bag, careful to save remaining marinade for basting. Brush off any solids that may have stuck to chicken skin. Allow chicken to come to room temperature and preheat oven to 425°F/215°C with a rack set to upper third of oven.

  4. In a medium bowl, cover rice with water and swirl around. Drain and repeat this step until water runs clear. Drain rice well.

  5. Set a 10-inch cast-iron pan or other heavy pan over medium high heat and add oil and 3 cups water. When water simmers, stir in rice and 1 teaspoon salt. Nestle chicken into rice, breast side up. Turn off heat, cover pan with aluminum foil and seal as tightly as possible. Set onto prepared rack and roast for 25 minutes, then remove foil, brush chicken generously with marinade, and increase heat to 450°F/230°C. Continue cooking, uncovered, basting every 8 minutes or so, until skin is brown and lacquered and juices run clear when the thickest part of the thigh is pricked with a fork, 15 to 25 minutes longer depending on the size of the chicken. Allow to rest 10 minutes before carving.

  6. While chicken rests, prepare the salad: in a small bowl, stir together ¼ cup fish sauce, vinegar, sugar, 1 sliced chile and 1 sliced clove garlic in a bowl to dissolve sugar. Set aside. 

  7. In a large bowl, toss together cucumber, bell pepper, shallot, cabbage, mint, cilantro, and basil. Toss with some of the dressing and serve alongside chicken and rice with chopped peanuts remaining dressing for garnish. 

Eat and enjoy!